Time to hit the road again and leave Katherine behind us.  We are heading to the Daly River to try our luck with some Barra fishing.  Daly River is a Northern Territory hotspot and so to miss the action would have been sacrilidge for a fisho like me.  On the way we passed Edith Falls and decided on the 40 klm round trip from the highway to check them out – well worth the effort!

Arriving at Edith Falls carpark around 1:30pm we set off on the loop walk.  We were dying for a swim and so did the 2.6klm loop in reverse so that we could swim at the upper pool after 1klm instead of 1.6klm.  The walk goes mostly upwards until you sight the upper falls and upper pool of Edith Falls.  The pool is rather big with a huge boulder island and plenty of swimming options.  I found a rock ledge and jumped in to cool down.  Amy was right in after me but Jess took a little more coaxing.

With the family in the water we swam off to the waterfall and took turns swimming under the falls and getting carried away by the current.  Just to the left of the falls is a rock ledge that you can take a breather and stand on.  It was also a good platform to help me scale the water fall and check out the pool above the falls.  In fact there was a beautiful infinity pool above the falls and another small waterfall and then the main river.  What a beautiful place this is.  From up above and looking down Edith Falls is massive and the combination of the tiered falls is enormous.  Mmmm, how to get down?  Coming up had been a little challenging and slippery so I wasn’t keen to come down the same way.  A bit of a look around told me there was no easy way down, so in the end I opted for the airiel route and chose a platform above the falls to leap from.  I must say I was a little nervous having to launch myself at least a 1m out to clear rocks below me…and…the drop below was quite substantial.   “Warrior Spirit” and leap…I hit the water, went under…phew no hidden rocks…and surfaced…all fired up and wanting to repeat the fun.  It was all captured on video so when I get a minute I will upload the blog for all to see.

Back in the upper pool we all enjoyed swimming in the rather warmish water for another 1/2 hour before setting off on our walk back to the car.  Heading clockwise (in reverse) we had not long left the water hole when you come across a lookout which takes in the magnificence of the whole Edith Falls.  It is a fantastic viewing platform and makes you realise that you are in one of those special places of “breath taking beauty,” totally amazing…gees…nature sure does put on a show throughout the Kimberley’s and Northern Territory.

Another 20 mins and we were back at the car and heading off to find a camp for the night.  In the end we managed to find a gravel pit just off the Stuart Hwy which turned out to be a perfect spot for the night.  For all of those receiving our SPOT GPS location finder, check out the free camp and use it when passing by.

You can camp at Edith Falls for a fee, being a National Park.

Well another cool place to visit and another day enjoying being on the road.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

We have been camped on the foreshore of Lake Tinnaroo for the past three days enjoying the brilliant sunny weather and placid calm picturesque waters of the lake.  Got to say this is one of the special places we have visited where time stands still while you get to enjoy the beauty and fun activities you can have here.

We are camped at Kuari Campground which can be reached easily via Kuari and a short trip down an unsealed road…just look out for log trucks and other motorists who seem to think they are the only ones on the road.

Kuari Camp is just awesome.  We are camped in an elevated position, 30m from the Lake on a beautiful grassy bank.  Pine trees and rainforest are off in the distance and the Lake forms a beautiful sheltered bay which is fantastic for the kids to play and swim…sensational.

The sun has been out and we have been swimming and scurfing on Lake Tinaroo during the day.  Yesterday I went for a mountain bike ride on the many trails in the area too.  There is something here for everyone and with the right weather is paradise…life doesn’t get much better.

The blokes have been doing the hard yards too.  We have set the yabbie pots and are up at 5:30am each morning pulling the pots and so far getting a feed of red claw for lunch each day.  These marron looking shellfish are very tasty and are fun to catch.  Each morning after pulling the pots the kids have come down to the river bank waiting for our return and have enjoyed playing with the Red Claw…so far, so good, no one has been bitten by the rather strong claws on these suckers.  We have been using vegie scraps and have found loading up the pots with bait works best.

What has also been great about our stay here is the kids having a go at scurfing behind Hamish’s dinghy.  The kids have learnt to take off from shore standing up on the surf board and have been so enthusiastic and proud of themselves for achieving that.  Jessy and Amy have loved the experience because they have wanted to have a go at surfing for ages and finally got a go (or the closest thing to it, anyhow).  Hey, even Bushman Bud after 25 years in the surfing wilderness after a freak accident at Margaret River managed to find his feet and enjoy some scurfing too.  Hamish was the star with his graceful moves.

Of course there is always catching up with great friends which is another enjoyable part of the travelling experience.  We have enjoyed catching up with Alex and Hamish and have formed a great friendship with them…thanks guys for another great few days…we look forward to more in the future.

Whilst at Lake Tinnaroo we plan to use this as a base to climb Bartle Frere and take in some more of the sights and touristy spots around the Atherton Tablelands.  The Lake is very well located for this.

What can I say, what an awesome place to be…I am here and you should be.  Get out and experience this fantastic tranquil place, get a feed of Red Claw, perhaps a Barra and watch the kids playing in safe calm water.  Life is good here for sure.  If you don’t visit Lake Tinaroo when visiting the Atherton Tablelands you have missed one of the beautiful spots in the area.

I am sitting here now, looking over the Lake, blogging and bringing this great location to your doorstop…photos to come.  I am admiring the lake, waiting for the Red Claw to fill the pots and looking forward to an afternoon play on the Lake or perhaps mountain bike ride.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

Up at 7:00am and wasting no time we headed for the Boulders.  We had missed out the previous two days but not today.  On the way there we passed two vehicles we had seen the day before so we were feeling very lucky…and we were.  There were two sights to choose from and we had set up camp and were schooling by 9:00am.

After schooling we had an early lunch and decided to play.  The kids had already met friends so I went for a ride down to the Devils Canyon lookouts.  The walk was an easy 750m bitumen based walk to the furtherest lookout and was spectacular.  I rode my bike there and was exploring so didn’t take my camera along.  I will be back down there before we leave for a few snaps though.

Along the way I met a man taking photos of all the ferns in the area.  I stopped and had a chat to him for about 15 mins and he filled me in on many different types of ferns in the area.  In fact I was standing on the walk way and in front of me he could count 60 different species…amazing.  He gave me some useful information about the flora and I left him feeling much better informed and surprisingly interested in the ferns on my trip back up the walk path.  The man was sooo passionate about the ferns that he made the whole thing entertaining and interesting.

Back in the main day use area I found the track that runs 17 klms to the ….camp ground and goes up and over the main range skirting close to Bartle Frere.  I rode 4 klms up this track and had an awesome time mountain biking through creeks, mud and undulating walk path.  Have a look if you have a bike, you will enjoy the challenge of the ride.

Heading back to the day use area I found Lovely Lynda, Jess and Amy at the water hole swimming and playing like the day before.  They were having fun swimming in the water hole and swinging on the rope swing, falling into the beautiful cool creek.  They were having a ball and it reminded me of the pleasures you enjoy when you take risks in life by steeping out of life and enjoying its simple pleasures.

Back to camp, dinner and a nice sleep were now on the cards.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

The plan today was to leave Cowley Beach and spend a couple of nights at the Boulders Free Camping area on the border of the Woonooranoon National Park.  By the time we got there (just after lunch) all the spots had been taken (only five available) so it was back to Babinda where there is a pleasant but very busy secondary (but much larger) free camping spot.  We found out that you need to be at the Boulders by 10:00am for a chance to camp there.

Earlier in the day we had lunch at Innisfail on our way through to the Boulders.

Back at Babinda we parked next to the playground and watched the kids play and had a relaxing end to the day.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

Waking up at the moonscape of Canal Creek, we were on our way quickly to Elliot Falls.  In reality, only a 10 minute drive from Canal Creek.  We were looking forward to checking out the falls and going for a nice swim.

We pulled up in the carpark and headed towards the falls.  You access the falls along a easy board walk which stinks of bats.  There are bats everywhere and bat dung everywhere.  Hold your nose and run I say.  Luckily the aroma of the bat dung is not present at the falls.  Arriving at the falls you have Elliot Falls and Twin Falls within 100m of each other.  We found that Twin Falls is the better of the two for swimming.  In fact if you had to compare the falls I would give Twin Falls the nod, just ahead of Elliot Falls.  Luckily they are close to one another so you get to see them both anyhow.

Arriving at Twin Falls we were lucky enough to have the place to ourselves for an hour.  We had a great time swimming and splashing in the falls and swimming right up to the falls to be massaged by the water gushing down onto your back…a very refreshing place to swim and relax.  Its funny though when you get to these areas and you are the first there, that you ponder where the safe swimming is.  Finally you get enough courage to go for a swim and relax after 5 mins or so when nothing has eaten you.  The even funnier part is that other people just come and jump in where you are without thought…thinking that if you are ok, then we should be too.  How crazy is it that we act like sheep sometimes and it gets us into a whole pile of trouble.  We had a funny incident where Lynda lost her hat down the creek, below Elliot Falls.  I followed the hat and was just about to jump in and retrieve it when two things dawned on me.  First was crocs and second was, how the hell was I going to climb back up the steep sides of the gorge without having to swim to find a spot…I would have probably found a croc before a safe place to climb out…lesson learnt again!

Twin Falls are a beautiful set of falls, two tiered (hence the name) that fall gracefully over the beautiful coloured orange and red shaded rocks.  It is typical of the falls you find in the Kimberleys and is very pretty and a must if up in this region.

Elliot Falls plunder off a shallow river bed over a table like serrated edge that runs down the river instead of across the river.  The falls in fact have created an umbrella formation as they continue to erode away the softer rock in the middle of the falls.  Too hard to explain in detail, check out the photos, I am probably not doing the beautiful falls justice.

After a beautiful swim in the crystal clear cool water we were back to the car and heading off to take on the challenge of the Frenchman’s Track.  We had missed out on the track on the way up due to heavy rain and a rising Pascoe River so we were keen to get stuck into it today.

Back on the highway it wasn’t long before we were bouncing along on the corrugations heading towards the start of the track.  We had spent a long time enjoying Elliot Falls and we quickly realised that we were not going to tackle much of the Frenchman’s Track today.  In fact we only passed Bramwell Junction around 3:00pm and debated over stopping there for the night.  The thought of the track was too much though and we continued on finding the start of the track at about 4:00pm.  At the start of the Frenchman’s Track there is a sign saying private property and no access allowed.  I found this somewhat unusual because I had heard of plenty of people tackling this track.  Well in an attempt to do the right thing I headed to the B?? Homestead which was 10 klm down the road to find out what the story was.  The caretaker there informed me that you can use the Frenchman’s Track but are not allowed to venture off the track or camp before the Wenlock River.  I then quizzed him about campsites and he noted that the only one he knew of was on the Wenlock River where there was a sandy bank on the far side.  Well at now 4:30pm and 25 klms away that was our only option.

We were back at the start to the Frenchman’s Track at about 4:45pm heading for the Wenlock River and needing to cover 15 rough klms.  It dawned on us early in the peace that this was probably wishful thinking as we would need to negotiate the difficult river crossing in darkness.  We looked out for many camp spots along the way and in the end out of desperation camped on the track at an intersection with another track leading South.  What had slowed us down was a very muddy and soft 300m section which required momentum and careful wheel placement.  We were actually very lucky on a couple of occasions not to come unstuck (or rather very stuck here).

Cooking dinner in the dark is never a nice experience and neither are the ever present mozzies and midges.  We were finally fed and into bed early looking forward to high expectations of adventure tomorrow when we tackled the Wenlock and Pascoe Rivers…until then…

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

Latest Videos below:

Northern Section of Telegraph Track_Start

Mistake Creek_Telegraph Track_QLD

Log Bridge_Telegraph Track_QLD

Cannibal Creek_Telegraph Track_QLD

Deepest Crossing on Telegraph Track_QLD

Nolan Creek_Telegraph Track_QLD

Jardine River Crossing_Telegraph Track_QLD

Jardine River Ferry Crossing_QLD

Leaving Mutee Heads the plan was to travel South to the Jardine River to have a look at the crossing, make a decision to cross their or back track to the ferry.  We wanted to complete the Northern Section of the Telegraph Track from the Jardine River down so that we had completed it in its entirety.

Back onto the corrugations and we headed towards the ferry crossing.  Once we got there (with the aid of Ozi Explorer running live in car) we back tracked to find the vehicle crossing.  We checked many camps that were on the Jardine River on the way.  These campsites were nice but I think that there are so many better ones around the Cape and Telegraph Track.

We eventually found the vehicle crossing and the size of the crossing is staggering.  It is at least 200m across the Jardine here with a rather big hole on the Northern bank which has crocodile written all over it.  Looking at the crossing, you would be crazy to attempt this on your own.  The river has a soft sandy bottom and is deep enough in places to cause flooding of your vehicle.  Add the presence of crocodiles to that equation and without real thought, recovery gear and a good team of people and cars you would be asking for trouble.

Perfect recipe, why not give it a go then hey…no chance!!

Damn, retrace our steps to the Jardine Ferry, cross the river and back track on the Southern side of the river to the crossing.  It was only this way that we could complete the Telegraph Track in fullness.  So that’s exactly what we did, other than having to wait for lunch to finish before the ferry resumed operation.  That took 45 mins of waiting and was a pain.

Over the river and down the Developmental Road until we picked up the Jardine River bypass track approx 15 klm South of the ferry.  The track eventually comes out near the National Park camp areas and by taking the right hand fork in the track you will find the Southern crossing of the Jardine River.

The crossing is a good place to visit for a couple of reasons, one you can do the crossing (if stupid), two, it completes the Telegraph Track.  Yeah for all of those reasons but most of all to get a feel for what the crossing is like.  It is enormous and full of danger as a 4WD enthusiast would know.

After experiencing the Jardine River crossing we now headed South along the soft sandy track, picking up the rest of the Telegraph Track.  The first real challenge on this section of the track heading South is Nolan Creek (also a nice place to camp).  The creek use to be bridged by a log bridge which has now been washed away.  This crossing is a vehicle swallower due to the very soft sand hole in the middle of the creek.  The creek also has two exit points, looking South the one on your right is the shallower and easier exit of the two.  Use a bit of momentum on this one and keep driving through the bog hole in the middle.  Be ready for water over the bonnet and let the bottom settle before crossing straight after another person.  This way you should easily do the crossing.  We survived the crossing with trailer in tow, exited on the right hand back with a bit of a phew and kept going.  Nolan Creek is a great crossing and fun for a swim.

Your next challenge is probably the deepest crossing on the Telegraph Track.  This one is definitely over bonnet height for a standard vehicle so strap on the tarp and wish you had a snorkel.  In fact if you don’t have a snorkel around here you will probably go home without your vehicle.

You are then in for a bit of a drive before the next crossings.  When you get to Cannibal Creek, the next crossings come quickly and seem like a blur.  As far as camping is concerned, camp at Elliot Creek or Canal Creek if running late in the day or Nolan Creek, there isn’t much in between and in takes some time to get from Canal Creek to Nolan Creek.

The first up is Cannibal Creek.  Cannibal Creek has been washed out big time and has steep entry and exit points which need to be carefully negotiated.  The entry is also very windy so if towing you have to be really careful that you don’t lose your trailer down the steep and very deep washouts.  This creek bends back on itself you look right around the corner for the exit which goes up, up, up and is steep and rutted.

Carrying on you get to the log bridge.  The bridge was in really good condition and has been reinforced considerably from photos I have seen over the years.  The real challenge here is getting in, over and out of the crossing.  From the North side the track drops suddenly at to the right.  You basically follow a big washout down to the log bridge.  However just before you get to the bridge there is a tight 90 degree bend and then straight onto the bridge.  This turn becomes difficult because the side angle on the track needs care and attention.  If you are towing a trailer like us then it becomes an even greater challenge to line yourself up nice and straight to get over the bridge.  Check out the video xxxx.  It is good fun and gets the heart rate up.  You certainly feel relieved being at the other side.  The Southern exit is straight and easily negotiated.  With a trailer this crossing is better approached from the South.

Next is Mistake Creek and probably represents the steepest and most rutted entry and exit points.  The creek itself is easily crossed once you get to the water (and fairly shallow).  The challenge is finding traction to get up and out of the creek from either side.  Careful wheel placement is the key and is made harder with a trailer in tow.  Saying that, with the right tyre pressure (yes let your tyres down and look after the track for all) you should get up either bank easily.

Now you should be in a real spin and just down the road (bypass to the Developmental Road inbetween) you reach Canal Creek.  This creek has so many entry and exit points that you have to search for a way through.  Park your car at the top and go for a wander to pick your line.  The major things to look out for with this crossing are the slippery white clay, big pot holes in the crossing itself and water depth.  Because the creek is so clear and has a sandy bottom it is easy to misjudge depth and find yourself in trouble.  You can walk this creek with little risk of crocs so do so!!

We entered the Creek on the far right, driving down the creek before exiting left.  This was totally different from our earlier crossing but a lot easier.  We did however almost make a big mistake by first following another set of vehicle tracks into the crossing in the wrong place.  Closer inspect found a deep drop off and a definite recovery.  This would have been ridicously hard on our own with the trailer and whilst we would have recovered the vehicle the likelihood of damage to the trailer or car would have been high…so look first!!

By the time we had crossed Canal Creek it was late in the day and we needed to find a camp quickly.  We knew Elliot Creek was just down the road so we raced down there for a spot.  Turning up late for a camp spot at Elliot Creek is a no,no, so back to Canal Creek where we squeezed in.  We did however save ourself a camping fee.  Canal Creek is free whilst Elliot Falls is $5 per person…hey another round of icecreams for us…you beauty.

What an absolutely awesome day.  The Northern section of the Telegraph Track is my favourite.  The creek crossings are more of a challenge and you get the old log bridge thrown in for good measure.  Saying that we leave the Telegraph Track behind with lots of fond memories and great 4WD experiences…add that to the family adventure we all enjoyed and you have a winning recipe.  We have the Cape bug and will definitely be back.  The good thing about the Cape is there is so much to explore and the tracks are always changing…therefore so do the challenges.

Dinner and sleep and onto the Frenchman’s Track tomorrow…another day, another great adventure…life is great!!!

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

How do you top yesterday and being at the Northern Tip of Australia, Cape York…it was going to be hard to find that experience today.

We awoke at the beautiful and tranquil Punsand Bay and I jumped out of bed for an early morning fish.  There was a nice rocky headland that I had picked out the night before to throw around a popper…so that is what I did.  Unfortunately no luck for me but the boats I could see a few hundred metres of shore were cleaning up on some top action…the water was alive.

After breakfast we decided to check out Somerset Beach and had heard of a 4WD track along the beach there.

We hooked up the camper and took the 4WD track (left out of the campsite) to again void the corrugations.  The camper was towing really well behind the truck and it is amazing how far you can go with these in tow.

At the end of the 4WD track we turned right this time, followed by a left a few klms down the coast which led us up to Somerset Beach.  We quickly found the 4WD track heading down the beach and followed it for 10 klms before coming out on the beach.  The track barely touched the beach before heading back into some overgrown scrub.  We persisted for a short while with this track but gave up after another few klms when it was clear the track was not heading down onto the beach.  This may have been a bit too soon because we later bumped into someone who said the latter part of the track was through nice rainforets…you can never tell sometimes.

Back up the track and to Somerset Beach.  This spot is also a free camping spot and is set overlooking a beautiful bay and island.  It does cop a bit of wind and to be honest, while beautiful the camping area had been hammered and poorly looked after by our fellow campers…what a shame.

We had lunch admiring the scenery before Lovely Lynda decided to roll her ankle on a boardwalk…ouch, it was a good one…anything for an excuse not to walk anywhere!

From Somerset Beach we headed for a look at the B52 Bomber wreckage just outside Bamaga and then headed for Mutee Heads.

The road into Mutee Heads was really rough in places and care had to be taken.  Mutee Heads is close to the Jardine River Mouth and the river mouth can be reached by a rather interesting and enjoyable 4 WD Track which covers approx 8 klms.

We arrived at Mutee Heads (another free camping spot) and one in far better condition than the last.  We decided to stay here the night and set up the camper before I decided to find the famous and very fishable Jardine River Mouth.  The adventure and thought of fish was too much for the curiosity…so off I went, the girls deciding to play/sit on the beach.

To be continued…

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

We are at the end of a four day stay at the River & Rocks free camping area near Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park.  If you have been following along you would know its a great base to explore the region surrounding and including the Freycinet National Park.  Also a good spot for some fishing and just plain relaxing.

The campsite is located 19 klm south of the turn off to Coles Bay from the Tasman Highway and is easily accessable for caravans, campers and those with cmper trailers or motor homes.  There is group camping available or nice secluded spots which have been well thought out and can easily accommodate a caravan or motorhome.  Onsite is a pit toilet and BBQ’s but you will need to bring your own water and firewood.

I looked at the camping spot in the national park (where fees apply) and for the sake of a 4 klm drive to the national park I would camp here anyday.  The national park costs you money, is boxed in and there still isn’t a view????

Use this one as a base if you are exploring the region around Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park, it is free, open, easily accessable and secluded if that’s what you want.  Good spot as a base.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

I will say up front…I forgot the camera…oops.  Today will followed the 4WD track out to the Friendly Beaches in the Freycinet National Park in Tasmania’s South East.  Dubbed as a 4×4 offroad track, the track was interesting yet pretty docile as a 4WD challenge rates.  Saying that the drive was enjoyable travelling through nice forest and crossing ??? creek a couple of times.  For those who have travelled the Yeagurup Dunes track in South West of WA, the scenery reminded me of home (without the dunes and the beach run).  The track was about 12 klm long and contained a campsite near the end of the track.  I was expecting to be able to drive on the beach on arriving at the end of the track but sadly this is a no go…hello barrier…and what a dissapointment.  To descend onto the beach and travel to the far end of the beach and loop back through forest would have made this track unique and quite frankly – awesome…what a shame! 

Is the track still worth doing…yes…I would have a look if you are in the region and have a 4WD.  The beach (although windy when we were there) was beautiful and I bet the fishing would also be very good.  So pencil it in as something to do when visiting the Freycinet National Park and just enjoy the drive for what it is.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia

You can choose between powered or unpowered sights and there are many areas along the creek where you can enjoy an open fire with firewood included.  You don’t get that very often anymore.

The amenities are basic but clean with a laundry and campers hut including fridge and gas BBQ.  There are plenty of picnic tablse within the park too.

We had a lovely time there and got along well with the owners.  The caravan park is very kid friendly and it is good to see the speed limit of 10 klm/hour enforced ridigidly…other than the kids on the bikes which should have been done for speeding a few times.

The kids enjoyed the park with its close proximity to animals, friendly owners and the creek.  Perhaps a kids playground would have been the only other advantageous thing.

A great base and lovely people…we will be back.

At the time of our stay a powered site for our van, 2 adults, 2 children was $20 per night with every 7th day free.  Can’t do better than that hey, great value for money.

Bushman Bud…Enjoying Australia